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found that thicker pieces do still have a moisture gradient from outside to inside. For example they might be at zero moisture on the ends and still 12% in the center but I don’t worry too much because they will equilibrate in a couple of weeks, the center is turned out anyway, and it’s only three or four days to dry them in the first place. Checking or cracks can happen but in my experience they tend to be much smaller and less of a problem than wood dried with other methods. I keep the wood away from the kiln walls because a lot of water condenses there and will easily wick back into the wood and stain it on the way down the wall. My shelf inside the kiln is about 6” off the bottom to maximize the diameter wood I can put in and to keep the wood out of the water that collects at the bottom. I did have a drain hole plug once and could hear the water sloshing around inside. I do a second wood layer at times with a smaller, narrower heat mat on top and that works well too. Vacuum leaks whistle quite loudly and you won’t be able to keep a decent vacuum. If I need a piece of crotch wood I will split the crotch on the band saw and have it available and dry a few days later. I rarely use commercially available woods other than for accent at this time. I have found that the barrier of time to get dried wood doesn’t exist. At this point in my woodturning career turning a piece of green wood and watching it warp and or crack makes me nuts. Maybe one day I will appreciate that part of turning, ha, ha. I hope this short description is helpful to other turners. No, I don’t do custom work. Disclaimer: I am not an engineer. Building this device as I have works for me. I believe it’s worth building your own for the cost and convenience. Turners tend to be scroungers in my experience, that’s why so many make their own tools and jigs. Don’t build one with walls too thin. I calculated something like 31000 lbs total pressure on the outside of my kiln at my altitude, hence the thick wall pipe. Since my 1⁄4” end plates deformed 1/16” under full vacuum I would guess 1⁄4” wall pipe would be too thin. Asking a qualified engineer for advice is a good idea, otherwise you build it at your own risk as I did. I’ve attached some photos below. A Vacuum Kiln could be Magic or just plain Physics but it works. Many Thanks to Joshua Salesin for getting me started on saving time and wood. He answers many common questions in his book so it is worth a read. A new edition is planned for later this year I believe. I found it originally on Amazon.com Happy turning, Jeff HankinsonPDF Image | Vacuum Kiln Wood Drying
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