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HARDWOOD DRY KILN OPERATION A MANUAL FOR OPERATORS OF SMALL DRY KILNS

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HARDWOOD DRY KILN OPERATION A MANUAL FOR OPERATORS OF SMALL DRY KILNS ( hardwood-dry-kiln-operation-manual-for-operators-small-dry-k )

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DRYING PROCEDURES OKAY–YOU’VE BOUGHT SOME LOGS. The logs you buy may have been cut on your own property, they may be logs that you asked a logger to cut for you, or they might even be gatewood that someone brought to your doorstep asking if you wanted to buy them. Let’s assume that you know how to scale them and that you have some idea about the quality and actual yield that you’re going to get after sawing them so you can pay an appropriate price (good for you!). The question now is: what do you do with the logs now that you’ve got them? END COATING. After the logs have been received at the sawmill (or preferably, right after they’ve been cut), think about coating the ends of the logs with ANCHORSEAL or a similar end coating (“end coat”) to help prevent moisture loss and end checks.13 If you don’t put an end coating on the logs, put it on the lumber as soon as possible after sawing. End coating is particularly important for expensive and thicker lumber and for denser species (because drying shrinkage is generally greater for denser species). End checks can form quickly, and delaying end coating usually doesn’t prevent any end checks already formed from getting larger and longer. Applying an end coating will dramatically decrease the likelihood of new end checks forming. Good quality black walnut logs intended to be cut into 8/4 boards would be prime candidates for end coating, as end checks could significantly decrease the amount of saleable lumber – but end coating yellow-poplar isn’t as cost-effective because it’s less valuable. Yellow-poplar is also less dense than walnut, so the amount of shrinkage/checking should be less significant. Different mills use end coating differently: one sawmill I know color-codes the logs with tinted end coatings indicating different species, while another occasionally uses different colors to indicate ownership (if they’re custom-sawing) or the source. Some people prefer not to have any tint in the end coating at all; they feel that a transparent end coating helps the sawyer and that they can keep track of the logs another way. No matter how you apply end coating, remember to put it on thick enough to do some good. Slather it on with a stiff brush, and give it two coats if the log’s valuable. If you spray it on, be careful to maintain a good coverage or it won’t be as effective (see Figure 35). 13 ANCHORSEAL is a water-based wax emulsion sold by U-C Coatings; sometimes people just call it “wax”. I’ve seen some hobbyists and even a small business on occasion try to use latex paint as an end coating, but it’s very porous and therefore ineffective. 64

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