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to follow the same radius up from the inside line of the deck non-skid. Once the final shape was established and cut on the contact paper, we removed it and transferred it to sheets of cardboard of a like thickness of the veneer. Transferred the shape We then did a dry-fit of the cardboard, doing any final trim- ming, taping off the outside edge, top and bottom. Then we removed it from the boat and prepared to transfer the shape to the teak veneer. One of the tricky parts of this project was lining up the templates on the veneer to best use the materi- als while still keeping the grain pattern running straight. The cabin side has a curvature as it goes in, going forward, and it also curves up so the panels don’t just lie flat. Once all ve- neers were laid out, I cut the material using heavy-duty scis- sors. Then I sanded the lower edge and butt joints and coated all veneers with System Three Clear-Coat epoxy resin. After the epoxy cured, we taped the outside edge all around and covered the veneer with rosin paper. We taped a layer of breather fabric, a felt-like fabric that allows air to be pulled out evenly beneath the bag, onto the paper-covered veneer panels. As we had already taped off the outside of the templates, it was time to prepare the cabin sides to which the veneer panels would be bonded. We wiped down all surfaces with ac- etone, sanded them with 80-grit paper, then wiped them down again. The tacky-tape was then applied around the outside of the taped-off area of the cabin side. Due to the length of the panels, we bagged one at a time (two panels on the port and starboard side, one on the bow, and one on each side of the companionway, see photo, top right). We paid special atten- tion to the areas over portlight openings. The ports had been removed for polishing, so the openings had to be sealed from Materials and equipment The vacuum bagging system we used to apply the teak veneer included a vacuum generator fabricated from a kit supplied by Joe Woodworker. SeePDF Image | Vacuum bagging
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